On Thursday, our last full day in Norfolk, we decided to visit the seals at Horsey Gap. But we ended up zig-zagging around the countryside as “the best laid plans” evolved. First, we encountered a downed tree/closed road on our way to the beach and had to backtrack down another route.
Horsey Gap is the location of a very large colony of Grey Seals. Their presence is a relatively recent phenomenon: a small group of seals started pupping here in the early 2000s, with sea births growing to over 1000 by 2012. As the population grew, humans began descending, endangering the young seals. Volunteers began monitoring the beach to keep people at an appropriate distance and, in 2012, established the Friends of Horsey Seals as an official organization. The Friends partner with local landowners and the government conservation agency to provide volunteer wardens who patrol the dunes during breeding season, guiding visitors to structured viewing platforms to prevent disruptions to the seal population. Alison volunteers as a warden here.
Horsey Gap is a classic English eastern coastal ecosystem: tall sand dunes anchored by sea grasses, separating the sea and its broad beaches from fresh water streams on the inland side. Good exercise for those calf muscles, slogging up slithery, sandy paths!
Several hundred seals lay basking on the beach. There was a very cold wind off the sea and heavy surf – good weather for seals, not so much for us. Milo was not thrilled with the sounds and smells of these enormous creatures, so we didn’t hang out for long.
Back in the car, we drove up the coast to Phil’s favorite brunch spot, which was sadly closed. So we headed on down the road to the Dunes Cafe at the Waxham Great Barn. The Barn was built ~ 1570 by the Woodhouse family, using materials from three local monasteries (which Henry VIII had just dissolved). It seems there was a competition underway for which wealthy merchant could build the biggest barn – the Woodhouses won, at 178 feet long. The link offers a fascinating look at the challenges of re-thatching this enormous roof.
Milo was a perfect gentleman in The Dunes Cafe as we sipped our delicious carrot/coriander and parsnip/mustard soups.
Then it was time for a garden visit – or not. We drove to the East Ruston Old Vicarage Gardens, which Ali had strongly recommended, then walked to the entrance only to learn that dogs were not allowed. Poor Milo! Loaded and unloaded with no opportunity for his promised walks.
We returned to Keepers Cottage for a couple hours of down time before our afternoon tea date with hill-side neighbors Jane and Richard. They were a delightful couple, bright and interested in everything. We enjoyed watching their sweet brindle Cairn Terrier, Emily, perform her job of menacing squirrels from the bird feeder.
I rode with Sue up the hill while Matt, Phil and Milo walked. Matt and I changed places for the return, and our route took us back by the Swanton Abbot church. This time Phil and I spotted gargoyles – obsessed as I am, how did I miss them on our first visit? These are really truly 15th century gargoyles (i.e., medieval gutters), not Victorian wannabes.
At 6:30 pm we piled into the car once more (sans Milo) for a trip to the best fish and chips in Norfolk: The No.1 Cromer Fish and Chips restaurant.
We parked on the edge of downtown Cromer and strolled by the Church of St. Peter and Paul with its elegant Perpendicular windows.
Our reservations were Upstairs at No1 (there’s a downstairs restaurant, too) which gave us lovely views across the sea. Fish and chips were superb and the mushy peas with mint were divine!
One little gargoyle came out to wish us good night as we walked back to the car in the dusk.
