St. David’s Head

Monday found us back on the bus for a circular tramp ‘round St. David’s Head. After bussing through Haverfordwest to St. Davids, we boarded the Celtic Coaster (cousin to the Puffin Shuttle) for a lift to Whitesands Beach, starting point for our walk. This little bus loops around the two bits of peninsula on which St. David’s sits, connecting ramblers with access to the coast path and parking lots. Because we boarded at City Hall, we got to travel around both bits.

Oggies are the Welsh version of pasties
Bus stop at Porthclais, located on the southern bit
St. Justinian’s, departure point for boat cruises
Whitesands Beach

The ramble ‘round St. David’s Head consistently appears in Top Ten Walk lists for the area – and deservedly so. The views are stunning: vast panoramas across sea and coast. Sadly, vast panoramas of featureless blue don’t translate well to photos, so I can’t really convey the effect.

This headland has a barren landscape compared to most we’ve walked, very reminiscent of high alpine tundra. The wind is constant.

The National Trust keeps semi-wild herds of Welsh ponies to help manage the landscape. They serve the same function as the bunnies on Skomer: their grazing controls rampant growers and maintains vegetative diversity.

Neolithic burial chamber (beware of barrow wights)
The lunch spot, with 360 degree views
Ramsey Island is across the strait

Exhausted by our efforts, we undertook cream teas in the St. David’s Cathedral refectory – giving us one more chance to experience this magnificent space.

Back at Haverfordwest, we soaked up the sun on benches by the river while waiting for the last bus to Broad Haven. Entertainment was provided by a family tossing bread scraps for the pigeons and gulls…

… and adolescent boys finger-climbing the river embankment wall, presumably just because it was there and they are boys.

Further entertainment was on offer on our return to Broad Haven, with this little guy intent on burrowing to China.

A bit of bloom to end – and besides, you haven’t seen a rhododendron for days.

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