Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM)

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In November, I spent 2 weeks visiting friends in Cairo. Just before I arrived, the long-awaited Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) opened the majority of its galleries as part of a “limited access”  program “to test site readiness.”  This museum has been a loooong time coming. Conceived as a Hosni Mubarak vanity project back in 2002, … Read more

Idube to Bateleur

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On Saturday morning, we took our last game drive at Idube. (Turnover at the camps is built around late morning departures for departing guests, and early-mid afternoon arrivals for new guests.)  We rounded the bend out of the Lodge’s driveway to find the wild dog pack waiting on the road leading to the dam.  Other … Read more

Idube 4: So many species!

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Thursday was our last full day at Idube.  At dawn, we headed out to the site where we had seen Tsaya the leopard stash her kill on the previous day. We passed a beautiful new (to us) species of antelope, Waterbuck, en route. On arrival at Tsaya’s kill site, we found two hyenas, an adult … Read more

Idube 3: Leopards

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By Wednesday morning, we had the routine down: collected from our chalets like goslings at 5:30 am and escorted to the lounge for a quick hit of beverages and muffins. Into the safari vehicle by 6am to greet dawn in the bush. About 4 hours hacking around looking for wildlife (broken by a “coffee stop” … Read more