Perched on a rocky upcrop above Taormina is the tiny hamlet of Castelmola. We drove there for an evening stroll.

A set of stairs (more stairs!) takes you to the reason people make the twisty-turvy drive up: a ruined castle with stunning panoramic views. Someone was burning agricultural waste in the valley below, so our view was smoky.

We enjoyed a pizza dinner and the town’s signature almond wine at the Antico Caffe San Girgio, right on the main piazza. (It’s the multi-story building with the white and brown checkered roof.) Lovely way to spend an evening!

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