Idube 4: So many species!

Thursday was our last full day at Idube.  At dawn, we headed out to the site where we had seen Tsaya the leopard stash her kill on the previous day. We passed a beautiful new (to us) species of antelope, Waterbuck, en route.

On arrival at Tsaya’s kill site, we found two hyenas, an adult female and a juvenile, in the process of stealing the duiker carcass (what was left of it) and scarfing it down.

Hyenas are a strictly hierarchical, matriarchal species. The top female gets first dibs on any kill, then the order goes down through the next ranking females (including juveniles), leaving all males in last place – and frequently going hungry. This juvenile kept trying to grab a bite, but the dominant female was not about to share.  She eventually ran off carrying the skimpy remnants in her mouth while the juvie trailed behind.

Hyenas are a big threat to leopards, so Tsaya had surrendered the field and was no where to be seen.  Once the hyenas left, we set off to find the cats, eventually finding them at the base of a marula tree. We followed them for about 20 minutes, bushwhacking all the way. And I mean literally “bushwhacking:” FJ drove the range rover over bushes, logs and small trees, with Mike up front in the tracker’s seat shouting “duck and dive” as thorn branches snapped our way. 

And then – there they were.

The leopards ended up at the waterhole at the dam, and we got to sit and watch them drink and play for about 10 minutes.  

Leopards once had the most extensive range of big cat worldwide – today they are gone from ⅔ of their historic range in Africa and 84% of their historic range in Eurasia. Trophy hunting, hunting for skins and body parts,  and conflict with humans are responsible for the decline.  A group called Panthera has been extensively studying the Sabi Sands leopard population since 2009 (using a family tree going back 35 years). Leopards are elusive and hard to study, but the Reserve’s strong protections and sensitive treatment has made the cats comfortable around vehicles and easier for researchers to study.  FJ told us that the reserve has over 100 adult leopards: 28 territorial males and 66-7 territorial females, plus cubs, juveniles and nomads (leopards without territories).  I felt privileged to see these magnificent cats in their natural habitat.

As we prepared to leave the dam, a Glossy Starling and a pair of Lilac Breasted Roller started a great fracas, dive-bombing one another on the wing. The LBR’s show such glorious iridescent coloring when their wings and are open and tail feather spread.

We cruised around for a while 

Lions had been missing from our part of the Reserve for several days, so we joined the queue when a pair of lionesses were spotted. While on standby, sitting on the broad plain above, I caught a glimpse of a Zebra heiny while scanning with binocs.  We humped our way across the plain and located a small bachelor herd of three Plains Zebras.  Notice how  each animal has very distinctive markings.

We followed them until they joined a herd of Impala heading into a thorn thicket – conveniently (for us) the same thicket where the lions were lounging.  These two young females are the last survivors of a lion pride that was wiped out by two male lions last year.  These males are part of a band of brothers who have taken over (i’e, killed or driven out all the other males) almost every territory in the reserve.

After viewing the lions, we “river-rafted” down a sandy stream bed. 

We came across a recently killed impala lying on the bank.  Strangely, only part of the neck and shoulder was eaten: the stomach, which is usually first to be devoured, was intact.  FJ and Mike  puzzled over what had happened, concerned that the impala may have been diseased.

Mike spotted the tracks of a large male leopard next to drag marks in the sand, and went off tracking after the leopard.

We drove up the stream bed to the road, and then on to another dam, where we met Mike and had morning coffee/tea.  Over coffee, we talked about when the Reserve will intervene to provide veterinary help to an injured animal. Help will always be given to members of highly endangered species, including cheetahs, rhinos, wild dogs and pangolins. Rangers will also intervene when injuries are caused by humans (snares and traps).

On the way back a male giraffe posed very nicely for us.  Because of their exceptionally long necks, giraffes have very high blood pressure – necessary to get blood up to their brain. They can’t lie down and only sleep about one hour per day.

Two bull elephants moseyed by, passing within one yard of the vehicle.

Another elephant herd – matrons and babies this time – passed as we approached the gate to the lodge. FJ said they were probably coming from a drink in the private pool at the Makubela Luxury Suite (where Lee & Jennifer, our vehicle-mates, were staying).  The baby boys were quite feisty, stamping their feet, waving their trunks and mock charging – from a safe distance.

On our return to the lodge, I found fresh elephant dung just outside our chalet. One of the “littles” (small enough to fit under the strand of electric wire set up to deter marauding ellies) must have left it as a gift. 

Walking to dining area for lunch, I saw FJ peering into a tree.  I couldn’t see anything, but he assured me a boomslang was up there, curled around a branch. After much scanning, I finally spotted it.

Adult boomslang are ~ 3.5-5.5 feet long and highly venomous (although human bites are rare).  Its hunting technique depends on blending into its surroundings, which it does extremely well – I had trouble finding the snake again even when I knew where to look. Although mostly arboreal, boomslang hunt on the ground as well, swallowing whole anything they can get their jaws around.

Other sights at the lodge that morning. 

Brunch (with excellent food, as always) was a lively affair.

Back at the chalet, I was working on photos and Matt was lounging in the room, when I heard a steady tapping at our chalet door.  Wondering who had come to call, I found these two cheeky persons at the door.

We had been warned to keep our doors closed to keep the monkeys out – who knew that hornbills were a bigger threat?  Did they follow us home?

The weather changed to cool and very windy for our last afternoon game drive, which was a nice break from the heat.

We drove past the site of the mysterious impala kill and found the carcass still there, virtually untouched.

We came across a male White Rhino who had wandered in from Kruger, sporting longer horns than the rhino mom & kid from our earlier sighting.

After sundowners, we came across the wild dog pack and spent some delightful time following them through the bush. It was a fabulous way to end the day.